Beijing Expert

Antique markets and scrumptious snacks make Tianjin a nice getaway destination. Spend a few days exploring the city’s narrow alleys, browsing its antique markets and sampling its famous snacks.

Over 600 years old, Tianjin, the largest port city in north China lies on the coast of the Bohai Sea. The city continues a legacy that’s both ancient and modern, Chinese and Western. Most of all, the city is known among Chinese cities for its colonial buildings in the former concession areas that still retain a European air of elegance.

There are over a 1,000 concession era buildings in Tianjin, the construction of which began in 1858 when the Qing court was forced to sign the Treaty of Tianjin allowing for the establishment of concessions in the city. Britain, France, Japan, Germany, Russia, Belgium, Italy and Austria divided parts of Tianjin. Each nation created their own self-sustaining walled enclaves, where their citizens could forget they were far from their native soil.

Walking down the Fifth Avenue or Chifeng Lu is like strolling down an old black and white movie. There are more than 230 buildings of English, French and Italian styles on Fifth Avenue alone. French buildings stand out among the crowd, especially on Chifeng Lu, which was the heart of the French zone. From Central Park, which used to be a French garden, six lanes branch out into downtown shopping areas. (more…)

Heritage: Imperial Summer Villa, Eight Outer Temples

Lush forests, bleak rock formations and unique temples make a trip to Chengde an outdoor adventure and cultural tour.

If you thought the Summer Palace was a nice place to escape the city swelter, then you should head further north to Chengde, a town that boasts the largest imperial summer retreat complex in China. Known as the Imperial Summer Villa (bìshǔ shānzhuāng 避暑山庄), “escape the heat mountain villa,” the park has been Chengde’s main attraction since 1703. Set in a mountain valley and surrounded by an ancient wall, the parkland includes its own lake, pine forests, hunting ground and pavilions.

The town of Chengde itself sprung up only to support the imperial entourage that set up camp there every summer and has never lost the feel of a tourist destination. Radiating from the southern gate of the Imperial Summer Villa, modern Chengde is small, but has a lively street scene with vendors and markets and pleasant tree lined lanes. Crossing the Wulie River on the only bridge into town, you’ll find Chengde is a relaxed town far from the din and bustle of Beijing. These days travelers don’t come just to escape the summer heat, but also for Chengde’s clean mountain air.

When the weather is still warm, people of all ages come to hang out in the Town Square, flying kites and playing badminton well past dusk. The square on Nanyingzi Da Jie is the heart of the town and a fine place to sit and people watch. Continuing north along the road is a towering statue of Qing emperor Kangxi on horseback guarding the city’s largest traffic circle. Close to the statue is Lizhengmen Da Jie which curves close to the Imperial Summer Villa wall with grassy spaces that make for pleasant walks past the two main gates of the park. The eastern edge of town is bound by the Wulie River, a broad gentle waterway with views across to the hills that tumble right down to its banks. Along much of the length of the river is a waterfront park with winding paths, pine trees and rocks sculptures – another fine place for a stroll. If it’s hot, you might try the public swimming area just upstream from the city’s main bridge.

Besides the famed Imperial Summer Villa, Chengde also boasts the Eight Outer Temples (wàibāmiào 外八庙), built during the reigns of Emperor Kangxi and his grandson Qianlong. There were once 12 temples, but today only eight remain open to visitors. In its heyday, the temples had imperial patronage, and supported a large and vibrant spiritual community. The eight temples are all set in the hills north of the town center where the mountain scenery alone makes it worth the trip, not to mention the amazing Buddhist art.

One of the highlights of the eight temples is the enchanting golden statue of Guanyin, the Bodhisattva of Mercy, at Temple of Universal Tranquility (pǔníng sì 普宁寺). At 22m tall and with 42 arms, her statue is a figure that’s not easily forgotten. Climb a ladder to get a closer look at the Bodhisattva, one of the most stunning statues of its kind. The temple was built by Emperor Qianlong to commemorate his victory over Mongolian tribes and mixes Han Chinese and Tibetan ethnic styles. (more…)

The seaside resort town of Beidaihe is famous for its beaches, while in neighboring Shanhaiguan you’ll find relics of the past in this ancient military stronghold.

While children build imperial sand castles on the beach, parents lounge around in their swimsuits and buy ice cream from one of the many street vendors. Along the beach, streets are lined with outdoor seafood restaurants, shell shops and hawkers selling their wares. In the summer months, the seaside resort town of Beidaihe, about 280km from Beijing, comes alive with wealthy Chinese families taking a break from city life. Most people come here for the beach, the sunshine and the fresh air. But there’s a lot more to Beidaihe than sun and sand – away from the beach, you’ll find ancient temples and mountain parks.

At the turn of the 19th century, Beidaihe was transformed from a tiny fishing village into a summer resort for European diplomats, missionaries and businessmen from Beijing and Tianjin. Today it has opened up to local and international tourists alike, who flock here in droves during the hottest summer months.

Beidaihe’s sandy beaches stretch for 10km along the Bohai Sea. Though the beaches are jam-packed in July and August, it’s still possible to find a few quiet coves where you can escape the crowds. The coastline is divided into three main beaches: Middle Beach (zhōng hǎitān 中海滩), East Mountain (dōng shān 东山) and West Beach (xī hǎitān 西海滩). Of the three beaches, Middle Beach (which is made up of many small beaches, separated by rocky outcrops) is the most popular and it’s easy to find drinks, snacks and souvenirs – and be bombarded by hackers pushing bracelets and shells. West Beach is similar, though a little quieter. East Mountain features long stretches of beach where you can bask in some hard-to-find privacy. Tiger Rocks (lǎohǔ shí老虎石), in the central beach area, is a popular spot for locals to gather and fish, fly kites and unwind. From a distance, the rocks look like a group of tigers bathing in the sea. Pigeon’s Nest (gēzi wō 鸽子窝) over at East Mountain is a good spot to catch the sunrise as it slowly peers over the sea’s horizon. (more…)

Matteo Ricci, who lived from 1552 to 1610, was an Italian Jesuit priest who struggled for 30 years to bring Christianity to China. Few missionaries have ever managed to win the respect of Chinese officials, but Ricci managed to gain the confidence and admiration of the emperor himself.

In the 16th century all traces of earlier missions to China had vanished. The Nestorians of the 7th century and Catholic monks of the 13th and 14th centuries had been forgotten and the few priests who were admitted into the country were ignored, or worse, punished for their proselytizing.

Coming to Guangzhou through the Portuguese enclave of Macau, Ricci realized that he would have to study China’s language and customs if he was to have any success spreading the gospel. He also shaved his head to appear similar to a Buddhist monk hoping this would eliminate other obstructions to his preaching. (more…)

The 18th century saw international trade with China blossom, but there was one problem: Western countries had little that pre-industrial China wanted. This trade imbalance frustrated British merchants, who needed to supply an increasing demand for a new drink – tea, which was rapidly becoming popular. They found their answer in the poppy fields of colonial India.

Opium-smoking had been banned by the imperial Chinese government in 1729, but British traders bribed the local officials, who turned a blind eye to their activities, and started shipping large quantities of the drug from British India to the southern Chinese port. Their intention was to create a nation of addicts and thus, an endless market.

2,330 chests of opium were imported in 1788, but that number had risen to 17,257 by 1830. Opium dens spread throughout the country. Officials, often addicts themselves, found it impossible to refuse the sweeteners offered by the now-wealthy British companies. (more…)

Some basic etiquette rules that should be followed when in Tibet include:

Never touch the head of a Tibetan, the head is considered a sacred part of the body.

Show proper respect in the temples, don’t wear noisy shoes, drink alcohol, smoke or make unnecessary noise.

Don’t put your arms around someone’s shoulders. (more…)

Princess Wencheng is the most beloved queen in Tibetan history. A beautiful and intelligent woman, she brought the Tibetans many of the scientific and agricultural advances of the Tang dynasty and is also credited with the introduction of Buddhism into the region. Born the daughter of a courtier, Wencheng became royal only later in life. Emperor Taizong of the Tang dynasty needed to find a bride for King Songtsen Gampo, the new ruler of the Tubo Kingdom (Tibet), and smart and pretty Wencheng seemed an ideal match. She was conferred the title of princess and sent west.

In AD 641, she set out from Chang’an, capital of the Tang dynasty, accompanied by envoys from both sides where they met King Songtsen Gampo in Baihai (Qinghai province). The delighted king ordered the construction of a nuptial palace by the Zhaling and E-ling lakes. They were married and honeymooned in the mountain valleys further towards Tibet. (more…)

The giant panda is an endangered animal found only in western China, because of human encroachment, the panda’s habitat is now reduced to six isolated patches mainly in Sichuan. Pandas are related to bears, though they are significantly different in many ways.

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Born in Texas in 1893, Claire Lee Chennault was to play a crucial part in China’s struggle against Japanese occupation during the 1940’s. His successes would not only win him the respect of the Chinese people, but also change the history of air warfare.

Originally a captain in the U.S. Army Reserve, he was forced to retire when he was 44 years old because of poor health and a stubborn insistence that fighter planes should be used to intercept incoming bombers – something that ran counter to the military wisdom of the day. Madame Chiang Kai-shek, however, had faith in Chennault, and in 1937 she recruited him to train and advise the newly formed Chinese Air Force.

Not long after he arrived in China, war against the Japanese broke out and Chennault’s theories were put to the test. In early missions his planes performed well against unescorted Japanese bombers, but the Japanese responded quickly by sending out cutting-edge fighters. Chennault’s rickety biplanes were no match for the agile Mitsubishi A5M; and so together with the rest of Chiang Kai-shek’s Nationalist forces, they were forced to retreat 2,000 miles up the Yangtze River from Nanjing to Chongqing. (more…)

Xuan Zang (Xuán Zàng 玄奘), who lived from AD 602 to 664 was the most famous Buddhist philosopher of the Tang dynasty. His epic journey to India made possible Chinese translations of some of the most important Buddhist texts, as well as providing the inspiration for the famous Chinese novel Journey to the West (xī yóu jì 西游记) and its stories of a brave pilgrim and mythical Monkey King.

Interested in the life of a Buddhist monk from an early age, Xuan Zang was ordained a priest when he was only 13 years old. He joined a monastery in Chang’an (now Xi’an) that was translating Indian scriptures, but was disappointed by the quality and accuracy of the works available. He decided that an expedition to the home of Buddhism was the best recourse to resolve contradictions he found in the Chinese translations. In AD 627 he set off on foot to India. He was only 26 and would not return for 18 years. (more…)