Beijing Expert

With its handsome buildings, pretty scenery and tumultuous history, the Summer Palace (yíhé yuán 颐和园) is a wonderful place to explore. As long ago as the Yuan dynasty, officials set up their private gardens in the scenic area, but the Summer Palace didn’t take on its present appearance until the reign of Emperor Qianlong of the Qing dynasty. He deepened the park’s manmade lake and added buildings to serve as a “country home” for his mother, though it would be the Empress Dowager Cixi who would have the biggest impact on the palace’s appearance.

During the Second Opium War in 1860, the Summer Palace was looted and partially destroyed by French and British forces. In 1886, Cixi diverted funds earmarked to build a modern Chinese navy and spent the money on endowing the Summer Palace with a marble boat-shaped pavilion and other extravagances throughout the palace. She also gave the palace its current name, yiheyuan, which means the “Garden for Cultivating Harmony,” an ill-fitting name as the Summer Palace would inspire little harmony. China soon paid for her imperial lavishness when a modern Japanese fleet destroyed its navy in 1895.

In 1900, Western armies again unharmo-niously sacked the Summer Palace, this time in retaliation for the Boxer Rebellion. Undeterred, Cixi again rebuilt this pleasure dome which had become her fulltime residence. She died in 1908, but the imprint of this cunning and powerful woman, who ruled China from behind the scenes for years, remains very strong on the buildings today.

Most of the major sights are concentrated in the northern part of the compound. Near the East Palace Gate, the entry point for most tourists is the Hall of Benevolent Longevity (rénshòu diàn 仁寿殿), where Cixi held court on her hardwood throne. A short walk away, on the shore of Kunming Lake (kūnmíng hú 昆明湖), is the Hall of Jade Ripples (yùlán táng 玉澜堂) where Emperor Guangxu, Cixi’s nephew, was held under house arrest on Cixi’s orders for daring to undermine her authority. The Hall for Cultivating Happiness (déhé yuán 德和园) is the name of Cixi’s delightful private theater that was built for her 60th birthday. Nearby is a display that includes a Mercedes Benz, the first car imported into China. The Empress Dowager lived in the Hall of Happiness and Longevity (lèshòu táng 乐寿堂), which is decorated with many period pieces.

These private apartments open up to the most arresting construction in the Summer Palace, the Long Corridor (chángláng 长廊). More than 700m long and ending at the Marble Boat (shífǎng 石舫), this shaded walkway is decorated with some 10,000 painted scenes, each one different. Paths lead off from the Long Corridor to the temple complex atop Longevity Hill (wànshòu shān 万寿山), which includes the Buddhist Incense Tower (fóxiāng gé 佛香阁) and the tiled Temple of the Sea of Wisdom (zhìhuì hǎi 智慧海). The climb will be rewarded with sweeping views of the Summer Palace and the Fragrant Hills (xiāng shān 香山).

The vast Summer Palace compound centers on Kunming Lake. In summer, visitors can explore the lake on boat, and skate across its frozen expanse in the winter. The highly photogenic 17 Arch Bridge (shíqīkǒng qiáo 十七孔桥) links the lake’s eastern shore to South Lake Island. The most pleasurable way to escape the crowds is to take a leisurely stroll on the willow-shaded paths and arched bridges that encircle the lake – bring your camera and a picnic.

Address: Haidian District 海淀区
Phone: 6288 1144
Opening hours: 6:30am to 6pm, peak-season;7am to 5pm, off-season; 7am to 9pm, national holidays
￥: 80 peak-season (for full access)  60 off-season (for full access)

The Temple of Heaven (tiāntán 天坛) served Ming and Qing dynasty emperors as a vast sacred space to perform ceremonial rites on behalf of the Chinese nation. Prior to the winter solstice, the emperor would lead a solemn procession, which commoners were forbidden to witness, from the Forbidden City to the Temple of Heaven. At first light on the winter solstice, after a night of fasting and ritual cleansing, the emperor would offer ritual sacrifices and make a report to heaven. He would also visit on the 15th day of the first lunar month to pray for a good harvest. The temple was vitally important to the imperial universe as it was the link between the emperor and Heaven.

The Temple of Heaven includes a large verdant park that’s worth visiting on its own, especially in the early morning when limber septuagenarians practice calisthenics. The Temple of Heaven incorporates several religious structures, the crown jewel of which is the Hall for the Prayer of Good Harvests (qǐnián diàn 祈年殿). The layout of the compound reflects its religious purpose and so adheres to geomantic precepts. For instance, the northern end of the park is curved while the southern end is square, reflecting the traditional Chinese conception of heaven as round and the earth as square. Likewise, the park gates are located at the four cardinal points.

The Circular Altar (huánqiū 圜丘) is the three-tiered structure closest to the southern gate. Built in 1530, the Circular Altar was where the emperor, facing north, gave heaven his report. It was acoustically designed to help the emperor’s words reach the cosmos. Indeed, the altar magnifies the voice of a speaker standing in its center, though only the speaker will hear this magnification, as sound waves bounce off the balustrades. Another interesting feature of the altar is that it was built with rows of marble slabs in multiples of the number 9, which was considered the most auspicious number. The first row has 9 slabs, the second 18, and so on.

Moving northward, the next compound is the Imperial Vault of Heaven (huángqióngyŭ 皇穹宇), which contained tablets of the emperor’s ancestors that were used in the solstice ceremony. The vault is surrounded by the Echo Wall (huíyīn bì 回音壁), which has marvelous acoustic properties. Its curvature acts as a parabola allowing two people to converse in quiet voices at a great distance from each other. However, on a crowded day when every visitor attempts this experience, all you may hear is a cacophonous muddle. The designers of the temple grounds incorporated numerous unique acoustic properties to the layout of the complex as there are many spots where sounds are amplified, echoed or redirected.

Circle around the outside of the vault after exiting and proceed north through a gate to the elevated walkway. As you walk, the Hall for the Prayer of Good Harvests will rise into view. This is where the emperor prayed to heaven on behalf of his subjects. This wooden tower was erected without a single nail, it’s held in place by an ingenious system of supporting beams and massive pillars. The design is also rich in symbolism. Topped by a golden orb, its cascading roof is blue, representing the color of heaven. The four central pillars represent the seasons, the 12 inner pillars symbolize the months, and the 12 outer pillars symbolize the 12 watches of the day. Inside the hall, on the ceiling, is a single golden dragon representing the emperor. Initially constructed in 1420, the Hall was set ablaze by a bolt of lightening in 1889 and was faithfully rebuilt with lumber imported from Oregon.

Address: Tiantan South Gate, Chongwen District 崇文区天坛南门
Phone: 6702 8866
Opening hours: 8am to 5pm for the buildings; 6am to 9pm for the park
￥: 50 peak-season (for full access), 30 peak-season (for sull access)

Beijing’s most elegant park is built around the bei hai (north lake). The lakes in Beijing are often mistakenly referred to as seas because the Mongolian word for lake sounds like “hai,” a homophone for the Chinese character for sea, which is also the character used in their names. Once exclusively restricted to the emperor and his court, Beihai Park’s (běihǎi gōngyuán 北海公园) charms include pavilions, gardens and a stunning Tibetan-style pagoda.

Beihai Park’s imperial connection began in the 13th century, when Kublai Khan chose the site for his palace, a marvelous structure according to Marco Polo. Little has survived of the Khan’s pleasure dome except an enormous green jade jar that was given to him in 1265 and was purportedly used to store his wine. You’ll find this 3.5-ton jar displayed in the Round City (tuán chéng 团城), a former royal barracks near the park’s main (southeast) entrance. The main structure in the Round City is the Hall of Receiving Light (chéngguāng diàn 承光殿), so named because the emperor would come here to watch fireworks. A Buddha given by Burma to the Empress Dowager Cixi is now exhibited there. The statue is carved of white jade and wears a crown and garment of gold sheet.

Jade Isle (qiónghuá dǎo 琼华岛) lies across the bridge from the Round City. In summer, lotus flowers bloom in the channel to the east of the bridge and this flowery motif is echoed on the bridge itself, which is decorated with carved lotus flowers and petals. At the foot of the manmade hill that dominates Jade Isle is the pleasant Yong’an Temple (yǒng’ān sì 永安寺).

Far more dramatic than the temple is the White Dagoba (báitǎ 白塔) that stands on top of the hill. Erected in 1651 in honor of a visiting Dalai Lama, it was flattened by an earthquake and later rebuilt. From a tiered base, it rises approximately 36m towards the sky and is said to contain Buddhist scriptures, robes and other sacred objects. Though visitors aren’t allowed inside the dagoba, they can inspect the Tibetan sutras are carved inside its front gate. The views of the city from atop the hill are dazzling.

Ringing the northwest shore of Jade Isle is the Painted Gallery (qióngdǎo chūnyīn bēi 琼岛春荫碑), a double-tiered covered veranda. Midway along the length of the gallery, near the boat dock, is the Hall of Rippling Waters (yī lán táng 漪澜堂) that’s home to the famous Fangshan Restaurant (fǎngshàn fànzhuāng 仿膳饭庄) and its elaborate imperial banquets.

You can reach the north side of Beihai by taking a boat to Five Dragon Pavilion (wǔlóng tíng 五龙亭) or walking around the park via the isle’s east bridge. Sticking out from the northwest shoreline, the Five Dragon Pavilion was built on 1543 for a Ming dynasty emperor who wanted a nice spot to fish and admire the moon. Neighboring Minor Western Heaven (xiǎoxītiān 小西天) is a square-shaped temple dedicated to Guanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, which Emperor Qianlong built for his mother. Don’t miss the delightful botanical gardens in the park’s northwest corner that features a greenhouse and lotus-filled pools. By the northern exit is the Nine Dragon Screen (jiǔlóng bì 九龙壁), a 27m long structure covered in tiled dragons that was designed to ward off evil spirits, it was built in 1756.

It should be noted that historic monuments are only half the fun of visiting the park. Like all parks in Beijing, Beihai is a hive of fascinating human activity, especially in the morning when it’s overrun with kung fu masters wielding swords, couples waltzing, calligraphers writing poems on the pavement with water, choirs of senior citizens, badminton players and Peking opera singers who exercise their voice by screaming across the lake. What’s more, you can rent paddleboats when weather permits.

Address: 1 Wenjin Jie, Xicheng District 西城区文津街１号
Phone: 6403 1102
Opening hours: 9am to 9pm (though some buildings close earlier)
￥: 10 peak-season 5 off-season

The abode of 24 Ming and Qing emperors of the Celestial Empire, the Forbidden City (gùgōng 故宫) is a fittingly awe-inspiring sight. Enclosed behind its moat and 9.9m-high walls are 980 buildings, vast courtyards and long corridors that occupy a total area of 720,000m². It’s alleged that as many as 1,000,000 workers and 100,000 artisans participated in the construction of this imperial palace, which began in 1406 and was completed in 1420 during the reign of Ming dynasty emperor Yongle. Destroyed by fires and other calamities, many of the buildings were rebuilt and expanded during the Qing dynasty. The last emperor, Puyi, left the Forbidden City in 1924, 11 years after his abdication and the establishment of the Republic of China. After Puyi’s departure, the Forbidden City, which had long been off-limits to most mortals, was opened to the public, hence its current Chinese name, gugong bowuguan, meaning “The Palace Museum.”

Besides its massive scale and historical significance, the Forbidden City strikes the imagination by its design. Its clear lines, perfect proportions, and dramatic color scheme of vermilion walls, white marble terraces and staircases and brilliant yellow-tiled roofs – create one of the world’s most beautiful architectural complexes. It was built along a meridian line, from the Dragon’s throne, an axis can be drawn directly south through the many gates, right through to Qianmen and on. From his northern seat, the emperor could symbolically survey his entire kingdom.

Taking all this in requires time, at least 3 hours, and a comfortable pair of shoes. The English audio tour is highly insightful and features the suave voice of Roger Moore of James Bond fame. Readers interested in the Forbidden City’s past grandeur should watch The Last Emperor by Bernardo Bertolucci, a film that was largely shot on location.

The main entry point for the Forbidden City is the Meridian Gate (wǔmén 午门) which is a ten-minute walk due north from Tian’anmen Square, don’t confuse Meridian Gate with the the Gate of Heavenly Peace, above which hangs Mao’s portrait. The “Son of Heaven,” as the emperor was called, would come to the Meridian Gate to review armies and announce the new calendar. As you walk through Meridian Gate, know that in imperial times you would have been guilty of a capital offense as only the emperor could use this central archway. Officials and royal family members had to employ the side passageways.

Emerging from the Meridian Gate is a courtyard bisected by a canal in the shape of a bow that’s spanned by five marble bridges. On the far side of the canal is the Gate of Supreme Harmony (tàihé mén 太和门), which opens up to a second gigantic courtyard that held audiences of 100,000. On the north end of that courtyard is the first of three great ceremonial halls, the Hall of Supreme Harmony (tàihé diàn 太和殿). This is where the Emperor read important edicts, celebrated his birthday and appointed military leaders. Inside the hall is an elaborately decorated throne flanked by cloisonné cranes (symbolizing longevity) and gorgeous columns carved with dragons.

The second ceremonial hall, called the Hall of Middle Harmony (zhōnghé diàn 中和殿), was used by the emperor and his ministers as a staging area to prepare for official ceremonies. Directly behind it is the Hall of Preserving Harmony (bǎohé diàn 保和殿) Where Qing dynasty New Year’s Eve banquets were held. This edifice was also used as an imperial examination hall for top scholars seeking official positions.

After passing the Hall of Preserving Harmony, some visitors pause over a cappuccino at the Forbidden City’s Starbucks while others meander eastward in an area that served as the quarters for imperial attendants, including, at one point, an estimated 70,000 eunuchs. There are signs pointing towards the Hall of Clocks (zhōngbiǎo guǎn 钟表馆) and Hall of Jewelry (zhēnbǎo guǎn 珍宝馆) where antiques are exhibited.

Due north the Hall of Preserving Harmony is the Inner Palace, a series of elegant buildings and courtyards where the emperor lived with his family and concubines. In addition to a throne room and nuptial chamber, the buildings include libraries, temples and a theater. At the northern end of the compound is the delightful Imperial Garden (yùhuā yuán 御花园) with gnarled cypresses, scholars’ rocks and pavilions. Reflecting their separate purposes, the Garden and the Inner Palace were built on a far more human scale than the grandiose ceremonial halls: the former were designed for the emperor’s private life, the latter for his public persona as the embodiment of the state and Son of Heaven. The garden is also the only place in the palace grounds that has trees because of the importance of symbolism to the emperor. The palace grounds is in the shape of a square, think of it as a box. If the box has the Chinese character for tree inside, it becomes the character meaning imprisoned (kùn 困), not exactly an auspicious symbol for the emperor.

To the north of the garden is the exit via the north gate. Be sure to take in the spectacular view of the Forbidden City’s moat, outer wall and corner guard towers. If you want an even better view, cross Jingshan Qian Jie and climb to the top of Coal Hill (jǐng shān 景山).

Address: North of Tian’anmen Square, Dongcheng District 东城区天安门广场北侧
Phone: 6513 2255
Opening hours: 8:30am to 5pm
￥: 100 peak-season 80 off-season

Tian’anmen Square (tiān’ānmén guǎngchǎng 天安门广场) is the spiritual heart of the world’s most populous country. It earned this distinction by serving as the stage for momentous historical events, like the demonstrations on May 4th 1919 that inspired young Chinese to fight imperialists and warlords, and build a strong independent country. Among those swept up in the ferment of the “May Fourth Movement” was Mao Zedong who would help found the Communist Party of China two years later.

On October 1st, 1949, Mao climbed atop the “Gate of Heavenly Peace”, which gives the square its name, to proclaim the foundation of the People’s Republic of China.

In 1949, Tian’anmen Square was a narrow walled plaza, but it was expanded in the 1950’s to its present size of 400,000m². The site of major parades, the square has also played host to impromptu celebrations as when Beijing was awarded the 2008 Olympic Games in July 2001.

Most days Tian’anmen Square is filled with sightseers and kite-flyers. During national holidays, it’s usually festooned with banners and floral decorations. Many Chinese visit at dawn or dusk to see elite People’s Liberation Army troops conduct flag raising or lowering ceremonies.

On the square’s north end is the Gate of Heavenly Peace (tiān’ānmén天安门), which leads towards the Forbidden City. Above the gate hangs the famous portrait of Chairman Mao. On both sides of the gate are inscriptions in Chinese: the one on the left says, “Long Live the People’s Republic of China”; the one on the right declares, “Long Live the Unity of the People of the World.” For a panoramic view of the square, ascend to the top of the Gate, where Mao proclaimed the establishment of the PRC.

In the center of the square is the 40m-high Monument to the People’s Heroes (rénmín yīngxióng jìniànbēi 人民英雄纪念碑), an obelisk with friezes depicting revolutionary heroes and calligraphy by Mao Zedong and former Premier Zhou Enlai. South of the monument is the Chairman Mao’s Mausoleum (máozhǔxí jìniàntáng 毛主席纪念堂), where you can peer at the embalmed figure of the Great Helmsman in his glass casket. Standing guard over the square’s southern end, behind the mausoleum, is 600-year-old Qianmen (qiánmén 前门) one of the few remaining Ming-era city gates. The building on the square’s east side houses the Chinese History and Revolution Museum (zhōngguó lìshǐ bówùguǎn 中国历史博物馆).

The imposing edifice on the west side of Tian’anmen Square is the Great Hall of the People (rénmín dàhuìtáng人民大会堂). Built in a speedy 10 months in 1958 to 1959, it’s home to China’s parliament, the National People’s Congress. People with a sense of grandeur will enjoy visiting the Great Hall’s 5,000-seat banquet room and 10,000-seat auditorium, which has a large red star on the ceiling outlined by 500 light bulbs. The National Theater, a futuristic “bubble” of titanium and glass resting on an artificial lake, is being built on a site directly west of the Great Hall of the People.

Great Hall of the People rénmín dàhuìtáng人民大会堂
Address: Tian’anmen Square, Dongcheng District (west side of Tian’anmen Square) 东城区天安门广场(天安门广场西边)
Phone: 6608 1188
Opening hours: 8:30am to 3pm but closed during parliamentary sessions
￥: 15

Chairman Mao’s Mausoleum 毛主席纪念堂 máozhǔxí jìniàntáng
Address: south side of Tian’anmen Square, Dongcheng District东城区天安门广场南边
Phone: 6513 2277
Opening hours: every morning (Notice: may closed for any reasons, so just go there to check)
￥: Free, but you must pay to check-in your camera(s) and bag(s)

The Gate of Heavenly Peace天安门tiān’ānmén
Address: Chang’an Da Jie Dongcheng District (north side of Tian’anmen Square)东城区长安大街(天安门广场北边)
Phone: 6309 5718
Opening hours: 8:30am to 5pm￥: 15 (walk under Chairman Mao’s portrait to the north side of the gate to buy your ticke